ALTRACO ELECTRONIC DISC BRAKE CALIPER Manual de servicio descargar pdf (Pagina 3)

On a few vehicles, an adapter bracket must be

removed before the caliper can be removed. On other

vehicles, the caliper and bracket can be easily

removed as a unit, and separated later.

After the caliper fasteners are removed, lift the

caliper from the rotor. In some cases, it may be necessary

to twist the caliper slightly for removal. On some systems,

the pads will remain with the rotor, Figure 13-9, while on

others, the pads will come away from the rotor with the

caliper assembly, Figure 13-10. If the caliper will not

be overhauled, use a piece of wire to attach it to the

vehicle.

Pad Removal

Remove the pads from the caliper, or from around the

rotor as necessary. Some calipers have outer pads that are

held by clips or have been clinched (metal tabs on the

outer pad shoe clamped by force against the caliper). In

Chapter 13 Disc Brake Service 213

Caution: Do not allow the caliper to hang by

the hydraulic hose. Hose damage may

result. Use a wire hook, Figure 13-11.

Figure 13-7.

A—Caliper which is held in place with a caliper

support key and retaining screw. B—After the retaining screw

has been removed, the support key is driven from its slot with

a punch and hammer. (Bendix)

Caliper

Drift

punch

Hammer

Caliper support key

Outboard pad

and plate

Caliper

housing

Retaining

screw

Caliper

support

key

Anchor

plateSplash shield

Rotor

Figure 13-8.

This caliper can be freed from the anchor plate by

removing the retainer clips. (FMC)

Anti-rattle

spring

Retainer

clip

Anchor plate

machined

"ways"

Inboard pad

flange

Anchor plate

machined

"ways"

Caliper

machined "ways"

Caliper

machined "ways"

Outboard

pad flange

Retaining

bolt

Figure 13-9.

Caliper assembly being removed. Note that the

brake pads have remained with the rotor and anchor unit.

(Sterling)

Rotor

Caliper

Drive axle

assembly

Inner pad

Caliper

bolt

Anchor

Outer pad

these cases, the outer pads must be pried to release them

from the caliper. Most pads will come off easily after the

caliper is removed from the rotor.

If necessary, check the pad thickness with a microm-

eter or caliper, and compare against service manual spec-

ifications. In most cases, however, the pads are obviously

worn enough to require replacement.

With the pads out of the way, carefully check the

caliper for damage or leaking. Also check the rotor as

explained later in this chapter. If the caliper shows any signs

of leakage or damage, it should be overhauled or replaced.

Many technicians prefer to install loaded calipers, which are

new calipers with the pads already installed.

Installing New Pads on the Front Calipers

Before installing the new pads, loosen the bleeder

screw and use a large C-clamp to push the caliper piston

into its bore. This is shown in Figure 13-12. Place the old

inner pad, a metal bar, or a block of wood on the piston

surface. This will minimize the chance of piston damage

from the C-clamp. Place a pan under the caliper to catch

brake fluid from the bleeder.

As soon as the piston is seated, stop turning the

C-clamp and tighten the bleeder screw. Continuing to turn

the C-clamp after the piston is seated may damage the

caliper. After the bleeder screw is tight, remove the

C-clamp.

214 Auto Brakes

Figure 13-11.

Always support the caliper with a wire hook.

Never let it hang by the brake hose. Hose damage may result.

(Chevrolet)

Brake

hose

Wire

hook

Caliper

Strut

Rotor

Figure 13-12.

Using a C-clamp and a metal bar to force the

caliper pistons back into their bores. This will provide the

necessary pad-to-rotor clearance when reinstalling the caliper.

(Pontiac)

Caliper

housing

Pistons

Caliper

support wire

C-clamp

Metal bar

Figure 13-10.

A caliper assembly being removed. Note the

pads have come off with the caliper. (DaimlerChrysler)

Shoes and

lining (pads)

Caliper

Rotor

Caution: While it is often possible to push

the calipers back into their bores without

loosening the bleeder screw, this may cause

damage to the master cylinder seals. It can also push

dirt and any debris into and through the hydraulic

actuator on ABS/TCS equipped vehicles. If this dirt

becomes trapped in the valves, it can cause the

hydraulic actuator to malfunction.

Note: The caliper components must

not be exposed to any petroleum based

lubricants. Use silicone compounds and

brake fluid for lubrication, and only where specified.

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